All good sea tales start with “It was a dark and stormy night.” I know for certain of the One Ocean crew wished this tale would have none of those words. Unfortunately it does. My ties to the Skagit Valley College Marine Tech Center have been strong since my retirement.
I was refitting all the systems in a new to me sailboat, from the electrical system to an anchor windlass installation, the classes at the Tech Center invaluable. A few years later, I began to volunteer at the Tech Center to help in class projects. In the spring of 2024, I began to hear
about the expedition of Around the Americas and an interesting opportunity of participating in having a major refit of the boat at the Tech Center. And the department head, Mike Beemer, was tagged as the Onboard Engineer! I was excited! So was the Tech Center!
The first time I actually saw One Ocean was on the west coast of Vancouver Island in the Hot Springs Cove anchorage. My wife and I were heading down the coast and stopped for a dip. We set the anchor about 100 yards off another sailboat. I didn’t recognize it as One Ocean until a young man touring the anchorage on a paddleboard stopped by for a chat. He pointed to the adjacent sailboat and said, “they’re preparing for a voyage around the Americas”. As I looked over they were raising anchor and left the anchorage before I could talk to them. My next sighting of One Ocean was her arrival to the Tech Center. A work plan was quickly created….it seemed endless. But day by day tasks were checked off. The refit accomplished.
One Ocean was ready for launch. And on schedule for departure on May 3rd. My wife Sara, Volunteer Bill and Volunteer Bob sailed out with One Ocean in my sailboat to the west entrance of Guemes Channel to say goodbye. Several months later, I was invited to spend a week or so on One Ocean. Mike was leaving for a week to connect with family. The plan was for me to board the boat in Halifax and disembark somewhere on the Atlantic Coast or possibly Bermuda.
Wed, October 8th late in the evening I arrived in Halifax, Nova Scotia. It was wonderful to connect once again with One Ocean and her crew. The following day. I spent settling into the routine and being oriented to the boat and safety procedures, I had not been to Nova Scotia . And here I was, dining at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron, sharing a meal with Mark, Jenn, Tess and Mike. I had to pinch myself as I looked around the oldest yacht club in the Americas established in 1837. And seeing the numerous silver trophies lining the club & #39's walls commemorating their achievements.
On Friday Oct 10, we said goodbye to Mike and departed south for Dog Bay, Nova Scotia. The bay is totally open to the Atlantic but sheltered from the current Westley winds. We had a peaceful night in the anchorage and I was settling into the routine. Saturday October 11th, we raised anchor bound for Lockeport, a more sheltered secure anchorage. The review of weather forecasts confirmed a Nor’easter heading towards us. In addition, being further west would give us more options of departure times and destinations.
The entrance into the harbor was well marked leading to the anchorage enclosed by a stone breakwater. Access to shore was via a ladder from a floating dock on a commercial pier. We spent a day walking about the small quiet town. Most were celebrating the Canadian holiday…Thanksgiving. As I strolled through the traditional seaport town, it seemed more and more familiar, as if I was walking through La Conner and/or Friday Harbor but only on a peninsula. Tuesday October 14th, we departed Lockeport. Our destination is not clear but with a plan of frequent assessment of forecasts.
The further west we moved down the coast of Nova Scotia the more variables were being considered in determining our destination. So as we departed Lockeport our destination would be influenced by the sea state, wind and forecast as the days unfolded. So many things to consider: the Bay of Fundy’s Tidal Flow, we were on the southwest edge of Nova Scotia, the tidal flow causing turbulent seas, George’s Bank with shallow depths and a significant depression to the south. Cape Cod, Newport and New York were all considered. Problems with systems moving north along the coast and potential delays were adding up. One Ocean was behind the preferred itinerary. The seas being lumpy upon leaving Lockeport I got sea sick. I applied a Scopalmine patch. Gratefully over the next couple hours the nausea and vomiting faded away. The rest of the trip I experienced no further sea sickness.
We monitored closely multiple weather forecasts.The consensus was the depression was tracking east. We would skirt the west side of the depression and cross the Gulf Stream in a narrow spot setting our destination to Bermuda. Wind and seas were from our stern. I was so
impressed in how Mark and Jen carefully considered all the options and kept Tess and I engaged and involved.
We had nice sailing for the first 2 days. We continued the close monitoring of the forecasts. It was becoming apparent that the storm was not tracking east as quickly as anticipated. We were on a collision course with a building system and Gulf Stream flowing north at 5 knots. Jenn’s face deep with concern reviewed what to anticipate next. We were in for some heavy weather. She was right. On Friday Oct 17 we neared the Gulf Stream, The swell height quickly built to 20-30 ft and the wind to 40 knots with higher gusts. I recall having a sense of awe in the energy unleashed in the moment. And could not anticipate it would double in a short period of time. We soon began seeing 40-50 foot following seas and sustained winds of 45 knots gusts to 60 knots off our starboard quarter.
Jenn and Mark spent hours on the more responsive outside helm to maintain our course as we surfed to 14 knots down 40-50 ft waves and climbed at 4 knots up the next wave. The stay sail and engine at low rpm balanced the ride and maintained good steerage. One Ocean was
handling comfortably with wind and seas from our stern.
The “monster wave” broke over us from the starboard. Mark was steering at the outside helm. Jenn had just clipped in to relieve him. Both were harnessed to the boat and preparing to switch as the wave broke. Jenn’s account in her “Bermuda Blues” blog of what happened next
is terrifying and a true story of extreme courage. If it were not for their harnesses clipped in they would have been washed away. Those two are tough!
Jenn took the helm. There was substantial damage above and below. The solar panels broken, life lines missing, dodger torn and the dinghy barely hanging on by the bent steel bracket. Tess responded without hesitation, courage and clarity of what needed to be done….help Mark
secure the deck! Jenn with physical strength, skill and courage remained at the helm keeping the bow pointing forward holding course and keeping us safe. No easy task in breaking seas.
I was down below in the galley when “the wave hit” everything exploded. The cupboards, the shelves and the lockers emptied, a computer and printer were dislodged. Water was forced through the aft cabin dorades drenching it. It was a mess and dangerous. I began methodologically securing things, and clearing the cabin sole so we could safely move about. I was instructed to stand by the radio to initiate a “ mayday” if needed. And to increase our chances of rescue to text Mike a screenshot of our position and speed every 30 minutes.
I strongly felt the boat was in good shape…Very little water was in the cabin, the engine was running smoothly and our navigation system was still functioning. And the deck had been secured. But with night fast approaching, I felt uncertain if we would be seeing dawn the next morning. Keeping this uncertainty to myself, I kept focused on what was needed to keep us safe and follow direction. I believe we worked seamlessly with each other, anticipating before words spoken and supporting each other.
At dusk, a decision was made to steer from the inside using the autopilot. The watch schedule remained 4 hours on 4 hours off with 2 people on watch at all times. Every 30 minutes we switched at the helm. The autopilot and manual adjustments were made if the course varied 30
degrees. It worked well. We continued to have a dozen or so waves break onto the starboard side of the pilot house. Flexing the windows but not breaking them. As I reflect on this, I am reminded of the hours Volunteer Bill and I meticulously spent resealing the frames to ensure they were water tight. And they were! With this, and extra reinforcements added to the pilot house, the traveler and pilot house sustained no damage. I had not anticipated being one to benefit .
Dawn appeared. The wind had diminished but the seas were still enormous.
On Sunday Oct. 19, Bermuda appeared as anticipated and relief was felt all around as we turned into the channel leading to our destination, St. George’s Bermuda. As of this writing, I have been home for 10 days. Journaling, and sharing with friends and family. It has given me plenty of time to reflect on this experience. A few observations:
1. When the “what ifs” come up I’m not frozen in anxiety or fear but comforted and reassured by the experience of the crew and the strength and sea worthiness of One Ocean.
2. The “What Ifs” were not the experience! The experience was about being unified with each other for one purpose of keeping each other safe and secure as we passed through the storm.
3. My wife, Sara, and I have cruised for years from Anacortes to South East Alaska and the West Coast of Vancouver Island. We love sailing, have never been frozen from “what ifs” and plan on continuing to learn.
I want to thank those who are the reason I am here now. Last winter a Marine Tech, cadre of volunteers, which I’m proud to a member, donated countless hours to the refit: Volunteer Bob, Bill, Josh, Johnny, Chris, Tim and of course the One Ocean Crew Mark, Jenn, Mike, Tess, Grace, Northwest Rigging and unnamed Marine Tech students. Also, I wish to thank Bob Perry who designed One Ocean and the craftsmen of the boat builder Andrews. All of our exquisite work made One Ocean come through when it was most needed, in the storm.
And thank you OO for my great sea adventure which had a safe and happy ending.
Safe travels OO!
Charley
